Mexico Field Trips, February and March 1980
On
January 3rd, 1980, I boarded a plane in Toronto en route to Mexico to
study Spanish. After the plane change in Chicago, I found myself
sitting next to Janey, a young American student who was also on her
way to Mexico to study Spanish, as part of her study curriculum. An
amazing coincidence!
* Would never had
guessed that a year later I would marry someone who was from that
city.
At
the Mexican Consulate in Toronto, I had picked up a few brochures for
language schools, some in San Miguel de Allende, some in Cuernavaca.
Janey had only one brochure: it was about the school where she was
already registered. The school was called “Cemanahuac”, and it
sounded really interesting, so I asked her if it was okay if I tagged
along and she agreed. I liked the school so much that I signed up for
their 10-week program on the spot.
I
remained in Mexico for 20 years after that, and the irony is that I
ended up living most of those years in the other place... San Miguel
de Allende.
What
follows is an (unedited) transcript of the only journal I kept during the four months that those ten weeks turned into: at mid-term we were told to take a week off (I went to Acapulco and Zihuatanejo; I could write a book about that trip!) and the field trips did not count as class time as they were billed separately.
At the time, I was a serious amateur photographer and relied mostly on my colour slides. Unfortunately, all the slides I took during those trips - along with my collection of about 5,000 more - were destroyed in a fire in 1989. All but the ones that accompany this story, which happened to be somewhere else at the time of the fire. Needless to say, I am delighted that I kept this journal.
At the time, I was a serious amateur photographer and relied mostly on my colour slides. Unfortunately, all the slides I took during those trips - along with my collection of about 5,000 more - were destroyed in a fire in 1989. All but the ones that accompany this story, which happened to be somewhere else at the time of the fire. Needless to say, I am delighted that I kept this journal.
--------------
Here
is a key to some of the main characters of these stories:
JANEY
- 18-year-old American student, my roommate for the first month
CHARLIE
- school co-founder, Paco’s brother-in-law, our guide on some field
trips
PACO
- school co-founder, married to Harriet
HARRIET,
Charlie’s sister, who looked after the office
Paco
taught a course in traditional Mexican medicine and was our guide on
some field trips
ROBERTO
taught History of Mexican art
TINA,
Spanish language teacher who took in students at her home. I stayed
there for a while and travelled in her car with her two daughters on
one of the trips
PABLO
(Paul) - fellow classmate from Texas, with whom I flirted a lot
The
other names in the diary no longer seem to trigger the memory after these thirty-some years.
----------------
Notes
in square brackets [ ] were added during the transcription process.
------------
OAXACA
FIELD TRIP - February 1 - 3, 1980
At
last a trip to talk about! We left at 2 PM Friday after class. Janey
& I were in Charlie’s van with Julia, Hilda, Miguel, Carla,
Andy & Sally. J.J. and I were in the back seat (Paco’s advice)
in order to sleep. We were up as usual till all hours the night
before.
The
trip was entirely through the mountains: first the green, lush &
warm area near Cuernavaca, through Yautepec, Cuautepec, etc., then
through semi-desert with giant cactus, dry dry earth (much thirst) &
windy too. We kept stopping to wait for the other van with Roberto
driving & for Pam who drove her own car.
The
last half of the trip we were quite cold. Thank Roberto for his
sweater, mine was still wet [?] & I had to put it in a plastic
bag.
Pablo
has gone to Tecolutla for a week’s holiday, Esteban is leaving this
week-end for good and so are Polly & Thurman. Thurman hung around
after class Friday as we were getting ready to leave to get the last
drop of friendship… we shall miss him.
Saturday:
Up at 8 this AM to look over the itinerary & schedule. It says
we’re free to go to Oaxaca market this AM & are to meet back
here at 1 PM to leave for Monte Alban, Cuilapan & treasure of
Tomb #7. Somebody (I’ll bet it’s Charlie) has very kindly slipped
a map of the city under the door while we were sleeping, & marked
the location of the hotel & of the market.
Temperature
a little cooler than Cuernavaca but not unpleasant. The sun is
shining in that special way that it shines in the mountains.
I’m
in the restaurant (“El Angel”) of the hotel Isabel. The espresso
machine is not working & I’ve been waiting 20 min. for my
“americano”.
Oaxaca
looked quite big when we arrived last night.
(IF
I keep a diary of this trip and turn it in to Charlie I get
credit for the trip. I HAVEN’T YET DECIDED… [Well, I guess I
decided to do it!])
Sunday
night, 10 PM
Sore
all over and exhausted by all the fresh air of the last two days.
Also the sun.
It’s
cold in Oaxaca in the evening.
Janey
& I had drinks at the Presidente & a light meal at the
“Health” restaurant across the street from Isabel Hotel.
Took
lots of pics last 2 days, used up all my Ektachrome 400 film which I
was glad I brought.
Itinerary:
Sat.:
AM Oaxaca Market; PM Monte Alban, Cuilapam ex-convent & treasure
of Tomb #7 in Museo de Oaxaca.
Sun.
AM Tlacolula market, lunch after mezcal “tasting”, Teotitlan del
Valle with weavers. Weaver we met night before at café was waiting
for us to visit his cousin’s house where we bought many rugs. He
& his wife taught me how to finish it the green one I bought.
Monday:
9.40 AM leave hotel Isabel & visit San Bartolo Coyotepec (Doña
Rosa’s black pottery) & Santo Tomás Jalieza (cotton belts &
sashes & purses).
Return
to hotel for lunch & return to Cuernavaca. Arrival in C. about 11
PM.
Surprise
#1: Oaxaca is like Cuzco [in Perú, which I had visited in 1976] -
full of hippies & expatriates! I wonder why? It’s so cold
here! But then so is Cuzco.
Charlie
is infinitely patient.
It’s
nice to get to know some of the other students a little better.
The
trip is very relaxed in spite of the tight schedule.
After
the Jalieza stop we went to the Tamayo Museum where I shot a whole
roll of the statues.
Charlie
ended up lending money to so many people!
-----------
February
22/80 - XOCHICALCO
XOCHICALCO
is where the astronomers of the whole world met (in 8th Century?) to
correct the calendar. The sculptures in the walls of the main pyramid
represent Quetzalcoatl curling around the “new fire” and the
guests of the meeting (very Mayan-looking gentlemen for instance). On
the left side of the front there are 4 calendars of the different
peoples represented with a “o” [this looks like a bullet in my
journal] obviously dropped and some hands crushing two of them. This
is presumed to signify the decision.
The
observatory, reached by underground natural cave, is directed at the
sun on the day of the summer solstice (June 21). On that day, at 12
noon, the cave is completely illuminated although the hole is only
about 1 foot wide.
The
“palace” complex shows the original ground level.
Setting
is beautiful, with Laguna del Rodeo in view.
About
½ hour from Cuernavaca by car, but a long walk by bus which does not
go as far as the ruins, I’m told. But well worth the trip.
--------------
CHIAPAS/MAYA
TRIP - March 1 - 8, 1980 ($110 US + 500 pesos for food)
Sat.
Mar 1
We
left nearly on time - about 1 hour late as usual. It took a long time
to pack the vans - there was just too much stuff.
Some
people, such as Miguel, were taking all their baggage as they were to
leave directly from Villahermosa to go back to USA.
I
ended up in Tina’s car with [her daughters] Monica & Cintia. We
drove to our first destination, Barra de Chachalacas, Veracruz, via
Puebla, Jalapa. We stopped in Puebla to eat - delicious chiles
stuffed with fruit & meat, sweet custard sauce, parsley &
pomegranate seeds. [Those were Chiles en Nogada, of course.]
Tasty, and, as Roberto said, beautiful like a painting. And the BREAD
was out of this world!
Tasted
someone's MOLE & it was SUPER, too. Restaurant was in a park.
It
rained practically all the way & Chachalacas & area were hit
by a NORTE which made it impossible to sleep on the beach as planned.
So we piled into the La Paz Hotel & Charlie negotiated a special
rate for us, 50 pesos each, 3 to a room. Slept well & we left
early next morning.
SUNDAY
Mar 2
Drove
to VERACRUZ & had breakfast at LA PARROQUIA, very famous ancient
spot with best café con leche in the country, served by
Lechero with 2 kettles. [One for the coffee, one for the milk. The
Lechero poured from quite a height, which was part of the show.]
Left
for VILLAHERMOSA via COATZCOALCOS where we “rendezvous-ed” with
vans in a cafeteria near the lift bridge. Had some food there (NOT
recommended) while waiting for the others.
On
to VILLAHERMOSA* - stopped at S. Andrés Tuxtla for a visit to the
market (not interesting) - to rendezvous at Hotel Viva.
2
hrs later Charlie phoned to say they were in Paraiso (no explanation)
& would meet us at 10 AM next day at Comalcalco ruins. We were
angry - probably the result of being tired after the long drive - &
stayed at Hotel Los Arcos, relatively cheap but clean (both of
Charlie’s recommendations were full). Had a snack before going to
bed.
MONDAY
Mar. 3
We
had breakfast at Arabic Restaurant in Centro. Really good cappuccino.
The coffee girl was black & the waiters called her “negra”.
[A term of endearment in Mexico.]
Villahermosa
is pretty & has a malecón. Tina bought some arabic
goodies for the trip.
Gang
showed up at 12 noon at ruins. (Tina had said they would not come.)
Really impressive site presently being restored. Talked to an
archeologist there - handsome & young & he had a radio on
(disco - no choice) & he was scraping the years away from the
sculptures in a tomb.
By
the time the group arrived we had completed our visit & I took
lots of pictures.
On
to La Venta Park to see the Olmec sculptures. Very impressive. Drove
back to Villahermosa where Charlie arranged for a hammock vendor to
come to us so we could buy. It took a long time & I bought one
for 320 pesos.
Drove
to Palenque & arrived in the middle of the night. Hung our
hammock in dining-room of Nututun - beautiful spot by the river with
the sound of the falls. I eventually slept on the floor. [I never did
learn to sleep in a hammock!]
TUESDAY,
Mar 4
Up
the next morning very early & had a very welcome breakfast of
delicious melba toast with really good BUTTER & jam, with café
con leche.
Off
to the ruins - beautiful, beautiful & there was a JUGGLER (“San
Francisco Pocket Theatre”) who entertained us for a long time.
Miguel passed the hat.
Afterwards
we went to the FALLS - exquisite idyllic setting but everyone should
have been naked like the 2 little girls!
Back
to Nututun to swim & pack for departure to ABANDONED LUMBER CAMP
ON LACANJA RIVER. I drove the last 3 ½ hrs through the most
incredibly strange jungle & very rutted poor dirt road. Arrived
about 4 AM & were greeted by the LACANDONES who woke us up at 7
AM next day & I had a slight disagreement with the boy leader!
WEDNESDAY,
MAR 5
Off
to BONAMPAK RUINS (we took Paola with us) through muddy roads where
we got stuck a few times & were lifted off by the “big boys”.
Eventually had to abandon the car & get into the van. But
eventually IT got stuck but good & it took 7 hours (Cintia says 5
½) to get it out. I was not much help except to drive as the others
pushed.
Some
had walked ahead (a 4-hr walk) & so we had to go & tell them
about the problem. Charlie ran ahead and 3 others walked.
Miguel was heroic - he spent 4 hrs in the mud, placing stones &
sticks under the wheels. When everyone got back, it took no more than
15 minutes to get it out with everyone pushing & Roberto’ van
pulling.
By
then it was dark. Paola & her husband walked back. Back to
LACANDON lumber camp to sleep. Up 4-5 hours later & packed all &
said good-bye as we were supposed to head back that day after visit
to Yaxchilan.
THURSDAY,
MARCH 6
But
first a visit, via CAYUCA (kayak) across the river to
LANCANDON village where we watched a lady making tortillas of white
corn and yucca in the house. (She wore glasses & charged 10 pesos
for a picture.)
Off
to USUMACINTA RIVER where Charlie had gone on ahead to arrange for
the boat. This was his gift to us in view of the disaster of the day
before.
Trip
to the town of FRONTERA ECHEVERRIA where we had hot pop [soda] on the
dock. Passed the most idyllic village I have ever seen.
Boat
trip took one hour. River is the border between Mexico &
Guatemala. YAXCHILAN ruins very exciting.
We
stayed an hour later than we were supposed to (till 6 or so) &
the trip back was very slow because we were going upstream & the
darkness impeded our progress.
The
“pilot” had to keep flashing his light to find floating logs. On
the shore, people kept flashing lights, hoping we were the corn boat
- so we were told.
It
was so late when we got back that (a) we couldn’t get anything to
eat; and (b) we decided it was better to go back to LACANDON camp to
sleep & leave early next day for PALENQUE.
FRIDAY
MAR. 7
Went
back to PALENQUE after having made coffee and heated up the spaghetti
from the night before.Charlie had to have his van fixed & also
Roberto’s spare tire (which had gone flat during the Bonampak mud
crisis.)
We
swam and had lunch at NUTUTUN - I had pollo pibil - delicious
& juicy. 120 pesos for the comida corrida. I had a beer
first - very much needed at the time.
Then
we left to go to ACAYUCAN to camp for the night. But we didn’t
arrive till 6 AM and were greeted by machine guns while Charlie
slept. Eventually, after phoning the boss, they told us it was
OK to stay but I could not take the ANTS [in spite of a circle of ant
powder around each hammock that Tina had brought as a precaution, an
army of huge ants had found their way up the posts and were marching
down my hammock’s cord directly towards me!] so I left with my
camera to walk to town. On the way, one of a group of 150 Airstream
people asked me to help him get [LP] gas for his truck. [I asked for
a ride in exchange for acting as interpreter for him. By now I had
two months of classes behind me, so my Spanish was pretty decent.]
Went
to the market and zócalo & could not get any decent café
con leche. Bought some fruit & cheese & ate that. Bought
some pan dulce to take back to Tina & the girls for their
breakfast, which was lucky as I found out on my return that the camp
restaurant was only a bar.
Got
back at 9 AM & everyone was up already, except Charlie. Lucky I
didn’t wait till noon to get back!
SATURDAY
MARCH 8
A
day charged with strange events! My turn to drive: very nice highway
so I got it up to 120 (K) without wasting time & the trunk of the
VW (in front, remember) suddenly opened wide! What a scare! But I
kept control while Tina screamed, worried about our things scattering
all over the road. I brought the car to a safe stop & Tina ran
out to fetch everything.
Somewhat
shaken, made our way to santiago tuxtla for the witches’ convention
(reunión de brujos) & had my tarot read. Fortune-teller
very good and told me lots of truths. Then we chatted about her life
& loves. We had a good rapport & it was nice to talk to a
Mexican woman.
The
heat was intolerable (in Acayucan it was boiling hot by 7.30 AM). We
left after coffee at the hotel (strange building, round, out of
place) & decided to split from the group as we were in a hurry to
get home. Saw some magnificent landscapes but I was too tired to take
pictures.
Driving
was very slow due to many slow trucks & impossibility to pass
because of many curves in mountain road.
We
had a few misadventures, surely amplified by the fact that we were so
tired. Tina was particularly nervous. Ex.: The bicyclists appearing
out of nowhere; Ex.: The 3 guys appearing in front of the car &
seeming to be holding us up. In retrospect, I think they were drunk &
one was trying to kill himself [?]. Both incidents [happened] on the
road from Orizaba to Puebla. We had gotten off the toll road & I
guess that was a mistake. Ex.: Stopping in a field to sleep & I
couldn’t & decided to wash the windshield. I heard a dog bark &
got back into the car. Tina told me later that she saw a guy crawling
out of the grass & towards us.
We
eventually reached PUEBLA at 10 PM & Tina wanted to spend the
night so we had a bite (TACOS ARABES - very good) & we
looked at a hotel but Tina decided to drive on.
I
vaguely remember stopping a few times to sleep, and driving a bit &
I kept hallucinating so Tina had to take over every time.
I
eventually fell into a deep snory sleep & woke up in front of
Tina’s house.
It
was 6 AM & we had been travelling since 9 AM [the previous day].
What
a trip!
P.S.
Everything in the selva that walks, crawls and flies, bites.
I saw scorpions, ants, lizards, wild dogs, snakes, & I heard the
monkeys at sunset.
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OAXACA/SIERRA
TRIP - March 27-28-29-30, 1980 (Best time of year to visit these
areas: March & April. Later on it rains and rains.) $55 US
THURSDAY,
MARCH 27
We
left at 1.30 PM, only half an hour late, in Paco’s jeep with 7
people: Paco & I in front, Teresa, Eva & Florence in middle
seat & Harry & Roger in back seat, turned around. We were to
meet Prue & Doug & Kim & Virginia in Pinotepa Nacional,
at Hotel Rodríguez, that evening.
We
took the road to Acapulco & turned off just before entering
Acapulco, heading towards Pinotepa Nacional. (There is a sign.)
Around
10 PM we arrived at M??? to get gas but the station was closed &
we didn’t have enough to go on to Pinotepa (115 K away). The hotel
was full but they let us hang our hammocks on the verandah & let
us use an unfurnished room (hotel is expanding) with toilet &
shower (with water) for the night. Some slept in the car. They
charged us 15 pesos each.
There
were lots of soldiers in front, working for highway safety and
assistance to tourists, more than usual because of Semana Santa.
Some were sleeping right on the sidewalk & we felt sorry for
them.
Terry,
Roger & I shared a room & we slept like logs.
We
were stopped several times by the DRUG PATROL but Paco always lied
about our destination. First he said we were going to Puerto
Escondido, then he said Oaxaca. He explained that if he had told the
truth there would have been too many questions.
He
must have known what he was doing for we were not searched once. But
we had an alternate plan had we had difficulties: Eva (chosen by
general consensus) was to pretend to be very sick & Paco was to
say that he had to take her to a doctor quick.
FRIDAY
MARCH 28
Paco
woke us up before the crack of dawn & we left for PINOTEPA
NACIONAL on empty stomachs. (Did we stop for breakfast anywhere?)
We
stopped by an ancient tree and bought pottery. (3 pesos for a bowl or
a small jug.) Prue’s van was at the rendezvous. They had been
frightened during the night by Semana Santa processions.
“”Pinotepa”
means “Kingdom”.
Left
for our first destination, PINOTEPA DE DON LUIS, encountering more
and more native costumes on the way. (Some old women in P. Nacional
had the Mixtec skirt & bare breasts.)
PINOTEPA
DE DON LUIS very pretty & clean little town. We stopped at
CHEFA’S to ask if there was room for the night. Hung around there
for a while (she has a restaurant) & arranged to meet back there
for lunch at 2.
Went
to the general store (run by mestiza lady) & looked at some
crafts. I bought a huipil & Paco expressed surprise that
the town ladies had not yet shown up with their wares. But once the
word got around that we were buying, it didn’t take long! The
women, however, were asking too much & the mestiza lady kept
shaking her head. She buys their goods & sells them in Mexico
City.
Paco
arranged for her to take us around to various weavers (everyone here
is a weaver) & I bought many servilletas, some of which
have the distinctive purple colour of the skirts [the purple dye is
from the cochinilla, an insect that lives on the nopal cactus]. I
took a picture of a lady weaving bare-breasted.
The
servilletas are in daily use for tortillas & the nicest
ones are the ones people use - I had to pay 150 pesos for the one
that says “Pinotepa de Don Luis”. The embroidery is too often
synthetic nowadays but they have such good taste in colours.
I
regret not having bought a rebozo with white on white weaving [I
found one in Mexico City several years later]. The price was 1000
pesos at first but I could have got them for 500. Those were the ones
the ladies were wearing. The ones they were selling were not too
exciting.
By
the time we got back to Chefa’s, the word had spread! There was an
endless procession & it was embarrassing not to be filthy rich &
able to buy everything. Somehow, too, a description of me must
have been circulating, as everyone approached me & no one else.
The
women were so beautiful.
With
all this visiting we had missed the procession but were told there
would be another one at 8 PM, with candles, etc.
We
hung around some more & had a conference on the porch with the
kids playing games with me. Went to the square where the kids were
playing basket-ball.
There
was a mass in the church, with a live guitar trio.
I
talked to the shop-keeper & she had the condescending attitude
that Paco had warned about. But I’m glad I had that chat with her.
While
waiting for the procession, we had a chat with the mestizo boys - so
bold compared with the “inditos” & then I recorded the
church trio singing popular songs. They were very good.
The
bells rang & the procession started (eventually) to the sound of
music as well. I recorded both but my batteries were running down.
Procession was very touching. Roger & I followed till I realized
that it lasted 1 ½ hours so we turned around & went to bed but
stopped at the tienda for a beer & I bought batteries & the
lady gave me 2 small jugs if I promised to take them to Canada!
We
slept on the back porch, very comfortable with a sleeping bag. Some
slept in hammocks on the patio but they had to cope with the dew in
the morning.
6
AM: 3 feet away, the rooster woke me.
Chefa
charged 15 pesos each for the night.
SATURDAY
MARCH 29
Trust
me to find delicious hot coffee & a toilet that works with water!
I had 3 cups of the lovely black stuff. Chefa told me that she had
ground the coffee herself.
We
said our good-byes & made our way to SAN PEDRO AMUZGOS, where -
surprise - EFRAIN was waiting. Turns out that’s where he lives.
Our
headquarters there was the tienda where we immediately started
looking at stuff to buy. Eventually, we were taken by Paco to the
house of a friend who has been MAYORDOMO [a prestigious
position in the community]. She also baked a special sweet bread in
her home-made oven. Apparently that is an honour.
She
showed us her huipiles. I bought the shocking pink one that
Paco said was the traditional colour & design for 300 pesos.
(They sell in Cuernavaca for 700 to 900 pesos.) Paco said she was
confused giving change as the Amuzgos still count in 20’s [like
their remote ancestors].
Went
back to shop & bought the white wedding one [huipil] that I was
later told came from 100 KM away & cost 600 pesos there. (I paid
900, tried to bargain but no go.)
I
had to borrow 1000 pesos from Efraín via Paco in order to do this.
Efraín was very gracious about this, tried to get the lady to bring
down her price but she would not cooperate. I like that man Efraín &
his easy way. He apparently lives in Cuernavaca half the time.
Later
on in the afternoon we had a conference with Paco on someone’s
porch, after which we left (around 4.30) to head for PUTLA where we
were to spend the night.
PUTLA
reminds me of a seedy port town, except that it’s in the mountains.
Poor & not too clean but we had a pleasant dinner of eggs &
beans & went to bed to the sound of the loudest fiesta.
The
noise did not bother me as I slept on the floor while Larry &
Roger got the beds. Price: 200 pesos for 3 [guests]. Desk man very
kindly indicated the toilets for the ones who were sleeping in the
cars.
Had
a good sponge bath & got rid of inches of DUST! Paco had said
he’d wake us up at 4 AM but we had seen no sign of him by 7.30 so I
knocked on his door & he said to meet him at the hotel at 8 &
we’d leave.
Went
back to the same place & had more eggs & beans & went
back at 8.30 & Paco was out buying a basket for the extra things.
We
left around 9.30 and arrived at SAN ANDRES CHICAHUAXTLA [home of the
Trique people.]
Paco
took us to the HOYO & told us the story of the suicides &
the ceremonial centre. It was only later that I realized that if they
believe that the caves is where god is, then by jumping the women
believe they are joining the gods. (Am I right?)
On
the way back we stopped at the house of a friend & looked a their
weavings but they were all synthetic. Which did not stop the rest of
the group from buying!
I
kept going back to the house where I had a marvellous rapport with
the chief & his daughters. I was thinking of buying her old
huipil. I persuaded Roger to buy one - 300 pesos & she
wanted 3000 pesos for a new one for her daughter but not till after
Semana Santa.
Other
women came with new ones and then old ones but the quality just did
not match. She explained to me that she insists on cotton only - they
are not using wool any longer as the colours run - & does her own
designs (she showed us her sampler later on) & that she insists
on using all the traditional designs on her own huipiles.
I
let it be known that I was willing to trade my tape recorder for a
huipil & eventually that got to her & she let me have
her own new one in exchange. But I asked her which she preferred:
that I buy an old one for 300 pesos or get the new one [in exchange]
for the tape recorder.
She
graciously posed for a picture for Roger, fixed her hair & put on
her necklace. I took pictures also. [Those are the photos I miss the
most from all those trips.]
I
called her a queen as she sat there on the floor in the
semi-sunlight, & presented her with the tape recorder.
I
had a marvellous rapport with the kids too, who came to me to be
touched… and I was so glad that I could speak some Spanish and
communicate…
We
were all invited back there to stay as long as we wanted & the
younger sister showed me a letter from a Japanese girl & asked me
to translate.
As
I came back from hoyo I saw
the beginning of the procession & felt a big lump in my throat &
some guilt for taking pictures of something so moving. I asked if she
was going too & she said she had been sick & now she was lazy
& used her sickness as an excuse not to go…
As
she was preparing herself for the photo, she showed me how they dress
under the huipil & explained that the palmera [that they
wear under their clothes] was “para dar fuerza para trabajar”
[to give strength for working].
We
had gone on that trip to see how 3 indian communities (the last
frontiers of Mexico) live & govern themselves.
(1)
Pinotepa de Don Luis is mestizo governed although they are only 15%
of the population;
(2)
San Pedro Amuzgos is [mostly?] mestizo and the Amuzgos have the
power;
(3)
Trique do not allow any foreigners & are self-sufficient although
poor. Their main god is the god of wind.
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We
didn’t conduct “tours” but split up in each town & wandered
around on our own. Paco said “if you buy something from someone,
ask her to take you to her house & show you how she makes it.”.
But more often than not, the invitation came spontaneously.
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The
school - Cemanahuac Educational Community - still exists. From their
website it
would appear that the Field Trip Program no longer includes the ones
described here. (Others are available, though.)
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